The Duke, a cross between Bud Fox and Alf Garnett is a self-proclaimed curry king so it was with pleasure and prestige that he accompanied me on this trip to Curries’ Graceland. Also, he drove and didn’t get us lost.
Chicken on the Bone from Lahore Kebab House
We had been planning this homage for weeks: I love a good curry and talk of the legendary Lahore Kebab House had me in flutters of excitement several days before the event, and I was practically hyperventilating as we drove up Commercial Road and the black and red signage approached. LAHORE KEBAB HOUSE.
As we were led though the spacious restaurant by the efficient waiter, the glass fronted kitchen came into view, and to be greeted by the smokey skewers of meat on the grill and bubbling pots of terracotta tinged sauces made my already high expectations become royally grandiose!
Grilled Chicken Wings
Before we knew it, we were seated and given water, salad, menus and a gesture nodding in the way of haste. The hawk eyed and nimble waiters had set the tone for the evening; The orders were taken as quick as a flash – 2 plates of curried lamb chops, chicken samosas, chicken shish skewers, grilled chicken wings and parathas to start, followed by kofte curry, chicken sag, chicken on the bone, and finally a vegetarian bindi (okra) dish. I prepared my throat for the spice sensation that was to come by sipping on a sweet lassi. The Duke had bottles of Kingfisher and Cobra. ‘When in Lahore’, he grinned.
And so the food. Let’s start with erm, the starters. The grilled baby lamb chops were delicious with the caramelised, sweet, spices heating the sticky meat. It wasn’t meltingly tender but it did slide off the bone just fine thank you. The grilled chicken wings were drenched in a red marinade that hinted of cumin and a whole load of chilli. They were grilled to tender perfection. The chicken kofte skewer was strongly flavoured with fresh coriander and the samosas were everything a samosa is supposed to be: Crisp, hot, fragrant and makes your mouth water.
Grilled Lamb Chops
The starters, especially the grilled meats were outstanding and if the Kebab in the name is testament to their grills, then it’s sincerely deserved.
My expectation had been fully met and so it is with leaden typing fingers that I have to inform you that our mains were as bad as the starters were good. I’m shaking my head as I remember.
I’m not a professional food critic nor do I consider myself to be a writer (as you can tell), so my creative prose doesn’t extend much beyond stating that the food was freakin’ dry: Chicken with spinach = dry. Chicken curry on the bone = dry. Kofta curry = dry. Bindi Bhaji = dry and manky and fibrous bits of okra. Don’t ask me about the sauces they came in because I don’t remember; I was in a state of shock and would only be able to recall the rest of the meal under hypnosis.
I can only presume that the saucy curries were pre-made and then left to warm for an overly length of time on the stove. I mean, how else can you dry out golf ball sized koftas?
I’ll come back because the lamb chops deserve my attention but I’ve learnt my lesson – some grilled meats, naans and chapatis washed down with a lassi. I won’t bother with the curried mains again, unless someone writes different but it had be a very strong case.
The Duke is in agreement with me; “It’s a game of two halves”, he says, being an avid fan of the beautiful game. It is indeed. First half 8/10. Second half 3/10.
2-10 Umberston Street, London, E1 1PY.
020 7481 9737
Possibly Related Posts:
